My husband and I went to Positano for five days and it was one of the best most magical vacations we have ever had. I wanted to share with you everything we did, in case Positano is on your bucket list or already in the books!
Planning the trip and getting there:
I had been eyeing Positano for over a year and when we finally decided to book the hotel and travel it was about 7 months out. I recommend you book 9-12 months in advance to avoid higher prices than normal or no availability at the hotels (NOTE: be ready to spend a lot if you are planning on this vacation but it’s worth it).
We flew into Naples and took a car service to the hotel (cost: about 120 Euros one-way)–if you’re heading directly to the Amalfi Coast this is the best way to get there if you are flying from NY or anywhere in the East Coast.
On our way back we stayed in Naples for one night since our flight was at 9am. Tip: if you’re flying out of Naples do not try to leave Positano the same day as your flight; you never know how the traffic will be). In Naples we stayed at Romeo Hotel.
Where to stay:
There are two luxury hotels in Positano: Il San Pietro di Positano and Le Sirenuse. We stayed at Il San Pietro and it was a wonderful experience. They have more staff than guests and are super attentive. They even special ordered my husband IPAs because that’s his drink of choice and they didn’t have it on their regular bar menu. Not to mention when we arrived to our room the mini-bar was stocked with the beer and you could order it at any of their restaurants/pool/beach. Lots of people have made it a tradition to stay here for many years–we met a couple that has been coming for the last 21 years! Very elegant and traditional.
Le Sirenuse is super chic and happening, but very busy with outside guests because it’s at the center of town. While beautiful, we prefer to be a bit away from the crowd and just go to it when we feel like it. The pool is tiny and right at the restaurant, with not too many chairs to lounge on. And there is no beach. Fun fact: Meghan Markle and Sofia Vergara stayed here when she visited, just wanted to mention that 🙂
There are so many other cute hotels but we were unable to explore them since we stayed for such little time but I recommend to go on tripadvisor and Instagram to scope them out (even message previous guests to see how they liked them).
Where to eat:
One of our favorite parts of any vacation is the food, and oh was it delicious in Positano! I was definitely on a pizza kick the whole time! Here are the spots we went to:
•Da Gabrisa: Small hotel restaurant with the best spaghetti with clams (also comes with conch and still super delicious). The best part is that the clams come without the shell so you can dig right in! You will find this dish in every menu but this spot is known for it.
•Buca di Bacco: This restaurant is one of a few (if not the only one) that are right on the beach with AC, so definitely go if the day is super hot–you get a nice beach view too if you sit by the window. This will sound funny but I got the chicken parm with French fries (I saw some kids having it) and it was delicious! Sometimes you just need some french fries. This spot is solid and highly recommended (do not confuse it with the downstairs restaurant, they are not affiliated).
•Zass: This was at San Pietro and it has 1 Michelin Star. It is a beautiful Italian restaurant with live music and a breathtaking view. I was not a huge fan of the food but my husband enjoyed it. If you are not staying at San Pietro but want to visit he property you can arrive earlier and have a drink at the main terrace (with the famous tiled bench, all over Insta) and then head over to the restaurant for dinner. Kylie Jenner and Travis Scott were there for dinner when they celebrated her 22nd birthday. Oh, and one last thing–men must wear long pants (even Travis did!).
•Chez Black: You will get tons of reviews about this place: good, bad, touristy, etc. They’re famous for their heart pizza. We went for lunch because we wanted pizza and it was perfect. I got the Diavola pie and it was good (not sure if you get a plain pie since that will have less flavor). We also ordered a fruit platter as an app and that was good too. Listen–yes it’s touristy but it’s a pretty place and for lunch you cannot go wrong. I think there are plenty of better places for dinner though.
•Restaurante Max: Traditional Italian and a charming space as it’s in a gallery with old world charm. We ordered a fish that I highly recommend, cannot remember the name but it was in a buttery/garlic sauce with olives and tomatoes. I want to recreate it. Get it!
•Le Tres Sorelle: Translates to The Three Sisters and it’s next to Chez Black. It was solid, we got pizza and lasagna.
•Carlino: This is the other Il San Pietro hotel restaurant for lunch by the beach. I believe it’s only for hotel guests but I recommend you call or email to find out. The food was great, very fresh. They have the traditional Italian dishes with a club sandwich (which my husband loved lol). I really enjoyed their burrata with prosciutto and their pastas. Their zucchini pasta was delicious but they are also known for their lemon pasta (I didn’t to love that one as much since it had a pretty strong lemon flavor to it).
The places we didn’t get to go but wish we did:
•Le Scoglio: This place looks and sounds amazing for lunch. Overlooks the ocean and is supposed to be an amazing experience, definitely go if you have the time. Celebs frequent here and it has been reviewed by some of the top travel publications. Lots of seafood.
•Le Sponda Restaurant: This is another upscale restaurant at Le Sirenuse. We decided not to go since we were already going to Zass and wanted to experience as much local food as possible but it’s a beautiful space and heard good things about it. It surrounds the tiny pool at the hotel and overlooks the town and ocean. Great spot for a picture. I would go next time.
•La Tagliata: This is a no menu spot; the type of place where they bring the food to you, I heard it’s delicious. I wanted to go but my husband didn’t lol.
What to do:
I am a pool gal so a lot of my time during the day was at the pool. We went to the beach at our hotel once for a little bit but preferred the pool. Our hotel pool is super quaint and not too crowded so it was nice.
•Center of town: It’s nice to walk around and do some shopping, get lunch before heading back to the hotel for some sun.
•Boat tour: We didn’t get to do this but the hotel has a complimentary tour that you can take to see different places which I highly recommend. You can also rent your own private boat or go with other folks for the day.
•Beach: You can rent colorful chairs and umbrellas from a few beach clubs at the famously cosmopolitan Marina Grande Beach. . We didn’t get to do this, but I’m sure your hotel can guide you in the right direction.
•Drinks at Le Sirenuse: You do not have to stay here to experience its charm. We got drinks here and ordered a few raw fish appetizers. The view is breathtaking and go to the bathroom so you can sneak a picture at their main restaurant and see the pool. Do not get the food, it was not worth it (the tartare had absolutely no flavor). Also, a double martini will cost you 50 Euros so be ready to spend $$$.
•Hike The Path of the Gods: Didn’t do this but if you’re into intense hiking, check it out.
•Music on the Rocks: Sadly we did not have time to go out in the evenings at night but heard this place is great. In a cave and they have jazz on the first floor I believe. Also a club.
•Franco’s: Next to Le Sirenuse, we walked by it and it was happening. Recommend going early as it get super crowded but good tunes.
Where to shop:
I love shopping but I’ve never bought so many things during a trip abroad before. Here are the spots I recommend for unique, local finds:
•Safari Sandals: I discovered you do not need to go to Capri for sandals lol, and Safari also makes them in front of you. There are a couple of spots to get them but I liked this place.
•C B By Kore: My favorite store. The cutest floral dresses–the vibe really reminded me of Love Shack Fancy meets Free People. I bought so many cute things here. They don’t have a website but feel free to check their Instagram.
•Profumi di Positano: I love fragrances for the home and this brand is made in Positano. They have a couple stores and are sold at a few souvenir shops, I got a diffuser in the ‘Positano True Love’ scent.
•Emporio della Ceramica: If you’re into decorating and entertainment this will be a dream. So many patterns to choose from and definitely a favorite among decorators and celebs. Sofia Vergara was there a week before us and got many pieces for her home.
I hope you have enjoyed my Positano guide and I would love to hear from you. Let me know if you found this helpful or you have other recommendations in the comments below!